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     We created the Anchors Seminar a few years ago to give BMS graduates some advanced training that they would not otherwise receive, short of enrolling in the Trad Lead Climbing School. The goal of the Anchors Seminar is to teach students safe methods for constructing top-rope anchors. Armed with these skills the student will be able to construct anchors from placed protection, natural features, and fixed gear, as suggested by the location. These anchors will be suitable for rappelling and top-rope climbing. We stress that the seminar is geared toward top-rope anchors. The seminar does not teach the student how to lead climb. It is vitally important to understand that lead climbing can place radically different forces on anchors and protection. The Anchors Seminar deals only with anchors that are subject to a relatively non-dynamic downward force. However, the principles learned in the Anchors Seminar will indeed be carried over into Trad School, if that is a path you wish to take. You will learn the finer points of placing protection and you will learn multiple methods of constructing anchors. You will not spend this much time learning anchors in any other school. The Anchors Seminar will consist of one Wednesday evening lecture and one Saturday field trip (best is to keep the following Sunday open in case it rains Saturday).

Class size will be limited to about 20 students and applications will be considered on a first-come, first-served basis. We do expect the seminar to reach maximum enrollment, so early application is recommended if you want to improve your chances of getting in. Email invitations generally go out only to current-year BMS graduates and instructors. If you cannot make it this year contact us again at this time next year and we will try to reserve a spot for you.
The rigorous application process consists of sending me an email with the following message: 'Please consider me for inclusion in the 2011 Anchors Seminar'. To apply contact Bill Haneghan (cmcpoodle@gmail.com). We will contact you to confirm acceptance and to provide instructions for submitting tuition payment.

Tuition for the 2011 Anchors Seminar is $75. Instructions for payment will be provided upon acceptance into the program

Wednesday Lecture will begin at 6:30 pm in the American Mountaineering Center Conference Room A in Golden.
If you want to come by earlier, instructors will be there to help you get a head start.
Saturday we will meet at 8:00 am in the East parking lot of the AMC before carpooling up to North Table Mountain on Saturday

DATE

SESSION

TOPIC

Instructor

Pages to have read*

Oct 5

6:00-6:30
6:30-7:30









































7:30-9:00

Informal Q&A with Instructors
Lecture:

  1. Introduction
  2. Anchor Types
    1. Toprope
    2. Rappel
    3. Sport
    4. Belay
    5. Lead
  3. Anchor Materials
    1. Natural Anchors
      1. Trees
      2. Rock
      3. Boulders & Blocks
      4. Flakes
      5. Horns, Spikes & Chickenheads
      6. Chockstones
      7. Chokes, Threads & Tunnels
    2. Fixed Gear
      1. Pitons
      2. Bolts & Hangers
    3. Left Gear
    4. Placed Protection
      1. Nuts
      2. SLCDs
      3. Hexagonal Chocks
      4. Tricams
      5. Expandable Tubes
      6. Sliding Wedges
      7. Soft Pro
  4. Anchor Systems
    1. Materials
      1. Carabiners
      2. Slings & Runners
      3. Cordelettes & Webolettes
      4. Ropes
    2. Principles
    3. Methods
      1. Statically Equalized
      2. Dynamically Equalized
    4. Forces
Practice Pro Placement
Practice Anchor Construction

BMS

Instructors

pp. 171-173 Selecting an Anchor
pp. 175-179 Equalizing Multiple Anchors
pp. 238-239 Natural Protection
pp. 239-241 Fixed Protection
pp. 241-252 Removable Protection

Oct 8

8:00-8:45

8:45-11:30
11:30-2:00
2:00-4:30

Carpool up to N Table and hike up to the gully
Practice Pro Placement
Practice Anchor Construction
Build a Toprope Anchor and rappel (and toprope climb)

BMS

Instructors

 

Oct 9

Rain Day Makeup, if necessary

BMS

Instructors

 

*     Text: Mountaineering: Freedom Of The Hills, Eighth Edition - Seattle Mountaineers

Gear Requirement: You should bring some carabiners to the Tuesday lecture. You will need your normal BMS rock gear for the Saturday field trip.
Although not required, a cordelette is recommended. We recommend 21 feet of 7mm nylon for the cordelette. If you buy a cordelette, please bring it to the lecture.

Recommended Reading: Both of the following are excellent
Luebben, Craig. Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide. Washington: The Mountaineers Books, 2007
Long, John and Gaines, Bob. Climbing Anchors. 2nd Ed. Connecticut: Falcon, 2006